1978 Toyota Pickup/Hilux 20R - GM HEI Ignition Module Conversion

Back again a story of initiative problems as usual 1978 Toyota Pickup Hilux is known in the rest of the world one er engine we were having initial problems with this and they really inconsistent idle and.

Far we've replaced spark plugs spark plug wires cap rotor rebuilt distributor and it still didn't work put a new coil in it still no help.

It looked like the United ox was bad and that's a problem because they're 250 to 400 bucks aftermarket part if you could even get one from the dealer for this generation the first generation 75 to 78 they're about eight hundred dollars or more Lake lentil yo to the villages together they have it listed on their parts but village I think once $859 some silly damn thing.

We'll to the forums and we decided to go with the General Motors high-energy ignition ignition module and do a retrofit now I'm gonna tell you right now this thing works it works great when I had it running it solved a lot of the problems it solved a lot of the inconsistent idle problem not all of it but that's another story I'll get to that it i had a miss in it when it got around a thousand RPM miss is totally gone.

1978 Toyota Pickup/Hilux 20R - GM HEI Ignition Module Conversion

That was that's what that's a good deal there and it didn't take much except some wire some crimp-on connectors a little shrink wrap just a little fabrication no big deal.

I'll go through this and show you what I did parts on this. Okay, ACDelco part here as you can see there's a part number 104 seven four six one oh that's the heatsink he'd sink really important to this it's all aluminum it does take a little modification you have to get a hacksaw blade or a grunt small grinding wheel or something there's another fin that goes right here take that off.

This will fit and line up the holes that are in it we have standard motor products t-series ignition module part number LX 301 T. This is the lower price of the two there is an Alex 301 but surprisingly look at this made in the u.s. not bad about $15 for the heatsink 17 dollars for the module that's about half the cost you won't get any parts store I got both of these from Rock auto ship together for $3 shipping good deal.

Here we go took the old igniter box off of here if you look at all videos you see it's a big old box take it office there's two little ear tabs under there then I just bent up.

They were in line with the screws going straight down and they actually did thread in but I've gotten nuts under there too just for the fun of it and just to make sure it's secure and doesn't rattle off or go anywhere but you can do this and attach it to your fender well inside the fender anywhere you got a convenient spot as long as it's out of the weather pretty much and it's not a lot of wires to hook it up believe it or not but again Maui heat sink this module comes with a plastic package of heat heat transfer grease is at the proper time heat sink compound that's the proper term there we go do not use dielectric grease it's not conductive there's a metal plate on the back of this module that's in contact with that which is in contact with a bracket which is in contact with the ground it's kind of important also dialectic grease doesn't really transfer heat very well don't use it heat transfer compound if you need some extra you don't have a little packet or something happens Radio Shack has it for three bucks a tube real easy.

Now this up with the two screws that I bought at Ace Hardware they were cheap 20 cents apiece and they're stainless.

They're not gonna rust on me made a ground wire because there's see this little pad here that's a ground point made a ground wire and took it to a body ground nice and solid grounding these is super important lots of guys have trouble they put it in oh it doesn't start doesn't spark I have no spark or ever really weak spots because you have a have nope almost no ground or you have no ground I decided not to fool with this and just put a straight ground in over here you've got a pickup coil in your distributor you have a red and a white wire coming out of it yeah I know it looks pink but that's from you know age feeding runs back here there's a shielded sleeve on here and it will tab on it and I just use the tab to mount it underneath and put a nut on there to hold it on.

I went splicing a white and a green wire right here come around here there's a W terminal and a green terminal white goes to white if you remember white goes to white you can't mess this up if you use the redness of the green doesn't matter the red goes there to the G over here you've got a B C and a B B is battery C is common B battery power this runs back here and goes to the original outlet for the ignition 12-volt switched from your ignition switch. Okay, the other one I put on the plus on the coil both come out of same one with my key on we're gonna keep trying to start both of these have 12 volt power.

You can still use a fuse and the fuse panel inside it's still a fuse ignition switch circuit nice and simple I just put a couple quarter inch male speed lugs on here crimp them shrink-wrapped shove it right into the female lugs in this plug simple.

One hot here one hot there common black goes to the negative post on the coil. This is what switches the circuit magnetic pickup sends this pulsing signal through this wire boom the circuitry in here reads that turns it into a motor signal there's an AC and DC difference to ask me explain it right now that's all over my head but goes and changing the signal to this black wire. This is what triggers your coil on and off on and off on enough throw spark boom out here do your distributor alright this white wire is not needed is this a convenience for me hooked up to the negative post put on a speed lug crimp shrink shrink tube I put female on here and I put a male speed lug on the wire for my tack.

I can just come over here in the end just loop tuning just plug in my tack and I'm doing two nuts and I can see what it's doing nice and simple I know you guys have waiter models the second generation they have a tack on the - there's something about having to put a thousand thousand ohm resistor in line to get the tact of work that's on some on some of the forums you can look it up it's there since it doesn't concern me I don't know much about it. This is just a really straight hookup if you're gonna use the factory tack on the later model you're gonna have to put a resistor in or it won't work if you just hook it up to the negative post it needs an extra resistor you can look it up forums have it you'll go Tech Twitter minis pirate 4x4 it's all in there easy to find if you look up GM GM hei conversion Toyota you'll find this online you can read about it all day long which is what I did to figure it out mine fired up on the first shot like I said runs pretty good but after doing less ignition work what happened was found out my ignition switch inside was intermittent I get to run and run for two mats and just totally boost drop out turn on runs for 40 seconds boof dropped out dead stall not even sputter stall just dead stole started again it ran for 10 minutes boom dead stall and last time I did that I was watching the tack at which I had taped down over here.

I could see it and I saw the Neil go not like you expect just bang that told me his electrical problem.

It's the ignition switch and that's the last ignition part on this truck I got ever place after that should be fine lastly as far as the inconsistent idle went turns out brake booster line was crap the check valve here it tested. Okay, I cleaned it it only draws vacuum this way won't let anything go back that way hooked it up still at inconsistent idle as you can see it's not hooked up it was that nice big plug down there right there hook that'll add up it was still inconsistent idle pulled it off put the plug on run spine no more inconsistent idle no more idle hunting around which means brake booster diaphragm inside is ruptured or I've got a problem with the inlet valve on the inside the looks of it it's old I bet this trucking team almost 19 years I've never touched that looks like an old Bendix replacement unit Rocco - once about a hundred bucks for one name eating local they just left to order it it's 160 to $220 I'm not foolin with that you could pull that off and run this thing and you'll have manual brakes as long as not being stupid or crazy will work.

Until I get it replaced I'm just going to run it like this won't hurt anything now he exposed to the ignition switch in there it'll it'll run for me I can drive it which is the point there you go GM hei cognition conversion it's really straightforward really simple don't overthink it I ever thought I looked at this for a week but I'm scared to death I'm a scaredy cat when it comes doing these things but - first 30 $35 delivered instead of 250 to 400 bucks for the other plug-in plate the other one and it's an aftermarket unit I can't argue about this this ever goes out any other parts truck will have one they're anywhere from 15 bucks to 30 bucks you're going to screwdriver and maybe a little adjustable wrench you can change this out 5-10 minutes and be on your way coordinator goes up I know that's a long time I know it's a factory part mine was original it lasted 38 years but man I can't afford to spend that kind of money and with it like this quick disconnect bunk bunk two screws there you go done that was in a hurry I probably get done in five minutes no big deal there you go just thought I'd show you just for interest sake we're going to wait until we get that Nisshin switching should begin here tomorrow and we're going to find out if she works Mei posted up later thanks again for watching hope it's some help to you.

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