Okay here we have a quick and dirty test booth for ignition module it's a dura spark to ignition module for my Lincoln build in 1979 it's a quite simple setup here we have a best year builder. This is from it's not a Ford distributor it is more participative from low-power electronic ignition here you can see the small induction coil it is directly connected to the Dewar a spark to input the purple and orange wire here we have the red wire for the 12 volt power supply which is connected to the red wire of the two Rosberg furthermore we have the green wire which connects the Dewar a spark switcher - the ignition coil it's a standard Bosch ignition coil nothing special and the ignition coil primary is connected to 12 volts we are to ballast resistors I took two resistors because only one own resistors were available.
I recommend to use about 1.5 ohm resistors which are very typical for such kind of application this will avoid overload of any ignition module to be tested and finally we have a powerful 12 volt DC power supply this looks a little bit shitty but it works ok.
Let's connect the whole application two twelve-volt the spark will start here.
When I turn the distributor you can see sparks I adjusted the gap to approximately one millimeter to avoid overload of the coil and all out of the ignition module and this ignition module is triggered by the small voltage which is generated in this coil when this let's say when these teeth pass by the magnetic central part the centerpiece of this coil it's a quite simple hookup but sufficient to test and this kind of ignition module this works for all ignition modules which are triggered by a small induction coil in the distributor the reason why I had to test this module is because you to a brutal overheat the sealer the mass which was included in the bottom area of this module drained out due to the overload because the voltage regulator in the alternator failed the voltage was not 12 volts it was about 18 or 20 volts.
The whole should overheat it dramatically and it sped out all the mass which was included here. This is a original Dorris part 2 module if you open a remake module it will look different inside there is only a very small printed circuit board inside.
These old modules are manufactured the way in it was typically away in 70s adapting the individual parts on a printed circuit board which is different from aftermarket modules nor.
These modules are really reliable they can withstand very critical abuse without being damaged.
I prefer these old original modules to the remakes. Okay, here we have exactly the same setup connected to a more power electronic ignition module the pickup is connected with the two wide wires the switch our output of the ignition module is the green wire and the red wire is 12 volt supply it is important to connect the housing of this module to ground there is no wire connection or a connector in the block for this ground connection.
It's absolutely important to do this because if you do not ground the module it won't work.
Here we have the same test Pro teach procedure just turn the distributor and the ignition spark box will jump from the high voltage terminal of the ignition coil to one of the primary connectors well at all and here we have to set up to check an old Bosch ignition module it is called side key rate. This is one of the first transistor ignition modules which were introduced by Bosch in the 70s and the strange thing of this device is it is not controlled by an inductor it is controlled by points.
I do not have to connect a distributor to this ignition module to test it I just have to connect the input of the ignition module to ground to simulate the points and this ignition module you can see we only have four wires it's quite simple to hook it up here we have plus 12 volt we have ground and if I do not rent this away we will have a shortcut in 10 seconds and here we have the green wire which connects to the ignition coil the ignition coil itself connects to +12 volts the ballast resistors for these old ignition modules it's very important it's quite important to connect them be our ballast resistors because those old transistors the power transistors are not designed for very high currents and if you connect them to let's say to a new coil with a very low coil resistance you will destroy the power transistor the output stage of this ignition module.
Anyway, this device is in good condition.
I'll disconnect this and I'll show you the output stage because this ignition module is not it's not sealed can open it and you can see the output stage which is bolted on a heatsink inside of this ignition module it is possible to recognize a printed circuit board.
In case of failure it is possible to repair this ignition module because it's not sealed at all.
I really wonder why it is not sealed because if you install this in a engine compartment and in the wintertime you drive the car and you have a lot of water and salt inside the engine compartment I wonder why this device does not fail within a short time.
Anyway, it's one of the first ignition modules. Okay, now I'm going to show you how to check a distributor here we have the mopar distributor with the induction coil the first thing to check it is very simple to check the resistance of this coil it should be about 300 ohms but if you have an oscilloscope it is possible to connect the output of this distributor directly to the input of the scope here we have amplitude 50 millivolts per centimeters and the time is time-based is set to 20 milliseconds.
If I just turn this distributor by hand you can see what happens it is very easy to realize that this distributor works it will trigger the ignition module those pulses have to be converted into rectangular shape and. This is done into the ignition module the ignition module actually converts this kind of deformed sin wave into a rectangular wave and powerful with a powerful output you.