Okay in this video I'm going to show you how to make electronic ignition for any motorcycle basically out of a chainsaw or hedge cut or anything with small petrol engine. This is the bike I'm going to fit it to trickiest thing first of all is usually getting the old flywheel off and you can see on this one that here you would have had all of the old electronics which had all corroded away. This is a 1940 roughly motorcycle I've made here this homemade flywheel puller which basically release these nuts here thus not rather twist that round to loosen off and then when you do these bolts up here and these nuts up here it will push this metal against that and pull the fly ball that way and they do snap off pretty hard you probably estimate one of these because they are all tied in on there here's a tricky to get off someone sort of off they aren't that's what that was for. All right, over here is some part of the normal any household chain saw smaller maybe 30 cc or less this one particularly came out of petrol streamer you can see as an old brush one I think it was this the old magnet a and the HT lead and the little aluminium flywheel the two magnets in there.
I want to do is take one of these and make electronic ignition for basically fit it to the motorcycle and it's actually pretty straightforward you can do it on the lathe like I've got here you want to make it a bit more accurate but I did actually make one over here earlier we're just using a pillar drill with a dirty great big inch bit straight through the middle and it worked. Okay, but it wasn't I just thought I'd make you better anyway, as I've got laid.
I'm down here is one that I've been making and I've made a backing plate for it again I did on the lathe the first version I didn't make this but I thought I would this time it just sits on there like that it's relatively straightforward and I've drilled two holes through this have you notice I've cut all the fins off here trying to do this one-handed by the way I've cut all the fins off there.
It fits nice and straight onto that plate I did on the lathe of course once you've done that you then put that onto here like.
Yeah these bolts will of course go straight through there you can see them keep bolt into the flywheel. Okay, nice and tight right now.
You want to make sure of course that the piston is just below top dead center when it fires you can work this out by taking out the spark plug it's quite straightforward getting something soft neither looking at their feeling compression or you can make a little gadget for instance or what I wouldn't use a bolt of course but you can poke something soft like a straw is quite good one in there and then as the piston comes up you can see it it moves the bolt up but like I said I wouldn't use anything metallics and damage your cylinder or piston that mana and then you can work out where top detent reason you want these two magnets because these are what's going to cause the magneto to fire to run those two magnets to make sure that fires just before top dead center a lot of people wonder where we're about to the actual make the spark occurs with these and I think the first one charges the first coiled primary coil and the second one causes the spark and jump from one set of windings to another.
Then you need to make a a plate to fit round your engine which I've got somewhere like this.
This. This is about five mil aluminium plate and I just drew round obviously when to serve matches around here and actually cut this with a jigsaw.
You don't need a dirty way be laid to do that and then I mounted the magneto on there now just made a little block for it you can do that with a dremel if you haven't got a milling machine on some another it's quite straightforward you can see that I've bolted the magneto on to there now this will then fit on here like.
You can see there where I'll screw that in quickly then this will become as this rotates of course it will cause a spark and you can measure what would be the traditional gap between there I'm not going to screw this up of course cuz I'm doing this one-handed but you can see the basic principle and.
Essentially as. This is now rotating the first the first coil is here and then the second one would cause the spark we notice actually I've put this flywheel on back to front off the way it comes off of the of a chain saw that caught me off-guard slightly because I made all this thing it didn't work in fact the motorbike ran backwards which is a bit weird but I suppose it's two-stroke.
It could do.
Now we've measured the gap between these two plates here and all sets of windings and as I rotate you can note you can see as they go past the spark will occur about there.
You can now adjust the timing by rotating this plate backwards and forwards and that will alter the exact point we should arm sparks to essentially you've got magneto ignition with with adjustable timing and here you can see I've just done a bit of a poor job extending the HT lead but it works absolutely fine put up there and this bike hasn't run I think for about 15-20 years because all the old windings that were ruined by them started absolutely first time and now it runs absolutely fine right now for the timing um there's a couple of useful things I've made here one of them is a spark plug in there which I've drilled the middle out of and I've put in a wooden lolly stick with centimeter markings up to five mil in the middle of smaller mark I know who your purists going to laugh and go about that but there you go this isn't a purist motorcycle it's a fact of getting an old 1940s bike back on the road for five quid and actually better use it when the parts are available or starting on New York anyway, this being a German motorcycle.
Why then what we've done is worked out the top dead center for the piston which is marked here the T that there is the point at which it sparks just in there now we're currently set to top dead center.
We know that it's box there I've been using this timing stroke to flash that now. This is quite tricky to do on your own because you need to kick kick start the bike obviously not with that in there but and then keep an eye on the timing thing I'm mark at the same time.
What I've done is just sock it on the fly rule without any form of spark plug in there and then made a bolt that's square and then we can fit that on the end there look like that again I'm trying to do this one-handed and there you can see and then you can use that as like an electronic starter really put on there and be warned I've eaten a few of these drills in my time they get hot pretty quick.
You can't do it C long but it's easily long enough to get that fire on there and then you can see now these are old Ram single cylinder bikes for some reason I suppose it just ease of calculation they'd rather than have timing retarded in degrees that are retarded in millimetres of piston travel.
This particular bike is about five millimeters now obviously that stick a slight angle this isn't going to be wholly accurate we rest it in there just sits on a five millimeter mark we can then just crank this thing backwards because we know we're at top dead center until that shoots back down just see it creeping down there must be five millimeters. All right.
Now we know that this will fire that must be about 5 millimeters before top dead center all we need to do now I can't do this with one hand begin to hold there and just rotate this backwards.
That that white mark touches that one and then we know that's exactly five millimeters of piston travel before top dead center and then all we need to do is get the feeling ages in here like that and then clamp all this time and she should run your following on from the timing we just need to check a couple of things you can see here that it's been our focus we move back a bit. Okay, right um I've now adjusted this you can see you can hear out nipped me no longer rubs as I did when I first installed it this aluminium block here is fixed by these two bolt there see down there bolt here and behind this on the metal plate is a slot.
I can move that whole thing back to and forwards I need to move about a millimeter in total provided. This is caught the hole in there as quackery otherwise this will wobble as I did that particular thing on a lathe I know it's well balanced and pretty accurate.
That's now adjusted to five millimeters for top dead center.
I'm going to bring in the strobe here and try and do all this one-handed which is not going to be easy I'm going to straight down in there like say bring in the drill on the other hand make a bit of noise then if you can see that flash you're not the deshays it does spark a treat and the timing is spot on five millimeters TD c bt DZ.