How to replace the ignition module or ignitor in your honda

Hey guys! I'm going to do a little how-to here today for you Honda related.

If you Honda guys happy one of the issues that have come across a lot in the last few years with Honda's is various problems with what we call using the ignition control module or the igniter it's the same box. This is inside the distributor and. This is the reason why probably a good 75% of you actually just go buy a distributor when all you need is to replace the control module igniter there's really only two primary components that go bad in the distributor one being this and the second being the coil there is a pickup and there are some seals.

Seals go bad you find oil getting into your distribute and get them thrown around you know from inside the valve cover work the distributor plugs in there is a seal there and if the seal goes bad oil can get into a distributor and cause havoc as well but if that's not the case and the pickup usually never goes bad it's usually comes down to the coil or the igniter or ignition control module one thing I found interesting about these little suckers it's just a small little device that has a few different connections on it the thing is is when you go to the auto parts store and you ask for one of these for a particular maker model of Honda or Acura most the time they'll tell you oh we don't have it or it's very expensive but if you look it up for a different Honda they have it in it's cheaper I don't know why Honda does this but to date me and my buddies have found that just about every single distributor we've taken apart for a B series or a single cam it doesn't matter it's the same piece inside even though the parts stores and Honda give them a different part number they all work VTEC non-vtec we haven't found a difference yet but if we do we'll let you know this one's actually out of a single cam and the problem we're having in my in my Integra is since the day I bought this thing the tachometer will work fine until about 6,000 rpm 5859 6000 rpm once it gets there at the universe with berar I just kind of funk sup thought it might be the tack.

I put a shift light in in another tech episode for our other channel C&C customs and the shift light does the same thing.

How to replace the ignition module or ignitor in your honda

It's more than likely this little device the igniter / ignition control module will also found weird things with this like if you go to the Honda dealership you say hey I need a valve cover gasket for my be 18 GS r they'll tell you oh we don't have that we can't we don't that's accurate you got a good accurate they don't need that I'm smart enough to realize that the Civic Si B 16 s the same gaskets in for just about the whole motor.

Little things like this pet peeve me but today I'm going to show you how to change this.

Get the camera here and the first thing is it's inside the distributor you do not have to remove the distributor it's easier if you do but you don't have to I'll probably pop the top of this air filter box off just take a little more room in there the first step just to go ahead and remove the cover once we have the cover off we'll pick up in there. Okay.

To get the cover off this was just a simple Philips head.

Is this or you can use a socket it's just three screws holding on now the trick to getting the rotor off a lot of times there's a slot there's a spot over here are three to see it up light right in there that's sometimes got to turn the motor you guys up line up you have to have something bump the motor over or what I can do what I often do is just put it like third gear or just a break off and I'll just rock move the car back and forth into this will spin with the car till you have the ease of Allen or the little bolt or Phillips head that's facing right here.

You can take and loosen it this one happens to have. However, one of these gay replacement ones that just slides on slaps off with a like a tension or thing in there doesn't even go into the into the hole with a bolt or screw.

You take that off this plastic cover will then pop right off and now we can start getting in here to the meats and guts on it and right there is our little ignition control module that little box right there to get him out it's a simple matter trying to turn here show you guys of two screws right here one and two take those two off and you undo these these uh Spade terminals or do they just pop right off you can slide your ignition control module right out and we'll pick up with putting a new one in.

Here we have the two modules as you see other than have a slight color change the exact same shape everything else appears to be the exact same the one says hitachi e 12 - 303 yogam says hitachi e 12 - 302 now I don't know that that means there's any differences as far as how these work but like I said we have not found a difference we've put these throughout all different cars my turbo civics swap them around.

Far not a problem one thing I did notice is that a couple of the Spade terminals could be pinched closed a little bit more take a pair of pliers and pinch them just a little tighter they were pretty sloppy fitting and a sloppy fit can also cause some issues.

I'll pick up the video with reinstalling it's just the opposite we slide the new one in put the terminals all on put the two screws back in put the black cover back over rotor back on cap back on and we fire it up and test and see if the problem is now gone. Okay.

I'm just reversing the procedure module back in wires all put back on it flat black plastic cap stuck back over everything and that clicks in a couple spots just to make sure it fits in there nice and snug like I said this one's the gay slip on style somebody's done a tune-up on this in the past simply got to get the flat spot to line up on the flat spot which is right around wire out of me right around it here right there clip in put the cap back on and tighten down the three screws on the cap replace the air filter box height here and then we'll be firing up and checking to see if the tack issue is fixed. Okay, guys.

Back together and haven't started it yet I'm going to fire it up I usually don't like to rev stuff when they're cold this has been ran very long.

Probably what we'll do is we'll run it just for a few minutes but it didn't use to go wonky until about six grand and I clearly don't want to rev the motor that high when it's cold.

I'll start it up here let the temperature come up just a little bit get the oil flowing and then we'll try to revver and we'll see what happens we'll pick up with that. Okay.

We have to warm up a little bit the idle came down and now you didn't hear him see the tachometer view what used to happen and what you may experienced and is when the tap gets up in the upper rpm somewhere the tack needle just start to do this and just jump all over when stays smooth all the way up through and of course since the shift light was getting the signal from the same place the tack was ie the distributor we were having the same issue with that.

Now what I'll do is I'll rev it and we'll see if around six grand the tap needle just starts to go everywhere or if it actually just fluently goes like it should now just see where clearly fixed that was a nice clean sweep worked flawlessly and the shift light came on when I'm supposed to set a six grand right now I will adjust that for ideal conditions at the track about jumping tack or any other issues like that you don't need a new distributor every time usually if value of a coil well here's the thing about a coil I don't want you to think I got a promise to replace my coil coils usually either work or they don't.

No spark no start situation could be coil or ignition control module but tack issues or funkiness like that intermediate problems usually the module or the igniter they call it alright guys thank you care.

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