Miniature Double Wedding Ring

Hi welcome to quilting from the heartland I'm Charlene Jorgenson and today I'm going to show you how to make the miniature double wedding ring using plaids and stripes to make the arc when I first started making the double wedding ring about five years ago somebody told me that I was to avoid plaids and stripes when making this design I believe them and it wasn't until the last year that I actually tried to do.

I had first made this design in a large version of it and in the back of the studio I have an example of what the same quilt would look like in the large design notice how I've used a variety of stripes and plaids and I've set it on a light background setting off the arcs and then used a contrasting plaid in a red in the connecting corners and then the other connecting corner is the same as the background now today we're going to do the same thing in the miniature variation and I have an example of it in front of me the one thing that I had to pay attention to when working with the miniature variation was that I had to make sure that there was more contrast from one piece to the next in the arc and I tried to use a variety of a more variety of colors in the arc.

That the little pieces would actually show up again I have used a red for one of the corners and then the other connecting corner is the same as the background and also the melon is the same as the background another choice that you have to make when starting to work with this design is you have to decide if you want to use a light background like the first one I showed you or a dark background and here I have lighter stripes and plaids set on a dark background either one looks very nice but I happen to prefer the dark arcs on the lighter background I also have another example to show you show you in front of me it has a totally different mood when you look at it I used pastel colors with miniature prints in it it has a very sweet and innocent look when you look at it when you look closely at the arcs you will see that on the ends of each arc I have used exactly the same fabric following around the connecting corners to kind of create a cluster effect around the connecting corners again then I have used a high contrast for one of the corners you want to do that because you want to set off the corners to finish off the circle in the design and then I've used an ivory for the background making the quilting design stand out very much also pay attention across each other in the archive used exactly the same fabric and you would call this than a planned variation of the miniature double wedding ring but today I'm going to cut and show you how to sell the scrap variation of this same design we will use like I said plaids and stripes and I'm not going to be careful about or particular about the grain of the fabric when I cut the pieces in fact it's more pleasing to look at if the pieces are slightly off grain I have already pre-cut the strips of fabric.

That they're easy to manage at the cutting table and by fold them.

Miniature Double Wedding Ring

That they're easier to manage also I'm going to work on a smaller mat board because it's easier to turn as I work if I do.

So just lay your folded fabrics up on top of a smaller mat board and this the pattern shapes that we're going to work with look like this and I'm going to start out first by using template G and I have fabric grips on the back of the templates to keep them from sliding just place that down on top of the group of fabrics that you're working with and like I said I'm not particular about the fabric grain before I cut them I prefer to use a small rotary cutter because it's easier to follow the curve if I do.

And just simply follow the edge of the template when you I'll cut out the pieces and remember I said you want to be able to turn your board instead of your fabric you don't want to lose the accuracy by having to lift up the template and moving the fabric the first cut I always make going backwards that gives me a nicer clean edge when I start out and then start in a little ways and then continue cutting your way around that template now after you have cut the first piece out do not disturb this fabric we're going to fracture it into six individual pieces going across here there are two little pieces available to go with this set and the end of the arc which would be template B you would cut that one first now I have six layers of fabric on top of each other.

You can get quite a group of quite a few pieces at one time now we're going to place template a on top and we're going to cut that one four times going through the center.

We'll get six of those now each time we do this we will get six more pieces.

We'll have enough for quite a few arcs when we're done cutting this one time around the templates now the piece that's left over is exactly the same as the first one that we cut which was template beyond our the end of the arc or template beyond the other end.

We now have enough for six arcs in the scrap variation and we'll set these off to the side and then a little later we will arrange them on the mat board or on the flannel board up here but I would like to cut the rest of the pieces before we do that now the background is a lighter fabric and we will pre fold that fabric into four and I already have done that sometimes you can get six across but this time we're only going to get four across and lay the template up on top of here actually I could get more I guess if I took the time to to carefully arrange the fabric but we won't do that today you can do that in your own sewing room see if I opened up this here you could get another set in here we are on the foot the fabric is on the fold notice how easy it is to cut that now turn your board and just follow around the edge of the template now I have fabric grips also on this piece to keep it from sliding and when you approach the corners when you're cutting sometimes if you have trouble keeping control of it if you put pressure on the outside points sometimes that makes it easier if you think you have trouble keeping it from sliding and again turning your fabric see how easy that is to follow the edge of that template now we have four of those now like I said if you wanted to take advantage of that other fabric that was in here you could just open it up and you'll get another one right in here then the other pieces that we need to cut are the melons that go into the arc and let's work up on a smaller mat board because it is easier to do that and take template C and lay it up on top of the fabric and it will fit right in the part left over from the background piece and we're going to by fold this.

It's a little bit easier to work with just following the edge of the template and like I said I prefer using the small rotary cutter and just follow the edge as you cut around there now you have four of the melons that go into the arc right in here the last piece that we need to cut is the connecting corners and you can cut those either on the straight of grain or on the bias and I prefer working with them on the bias because they are a little bit easier to put in the quilt if they are cut on the bias ahead of time I have cut strips of fabric of each of the colors.

That it would go a little faster just lay one of each color now I have the strip's folded in half.

I will be able to cut four at a time and again by fold those strips.

That you can get all of it up on top of the small board again making it easier to work with now take the smallest or the smaller template D the one that's shaped a little bit like the diamond and like I said I want to work with it on the bias and when I say bias the point of it comes in like this if it were to be on the straight of green then you would place the template like that.

Place that down and again we will just follow the edge of the template working our way around and just remove that this would be very difficult to do if you had to cut back handed or whatever you want to be able to turn as you cut we have cut all of the pieces now and we will arrange them on the flannel board before we go to the sewing machine and I'll show you how I do that I do like to take the time to arrange them even though I am working with scraps because you want to make sure that that you don't have all the Blues in one place or all the greens or whatever you want to distribute your colors throughout the whole quilt and it is time well spent arranging the pieces.

That you have enough of a contrast from one to the other even though the pieces are little like this you need to take that time you have four of the little pieces in Center we need to have one more of these and then we need one more and peace down here we'll have to switch this one around sometimes I spend way too much time arranging the pieces but it's kind of a fun part of the designing also I think. This is a lot of fun to do and now I would be comfortable with this I probably want to switch these two around like this. Okay, now the only thing that's left to do is to put the end pieces or the connecting corners one of each color on each end and then you have the melon in the center and I do take the time like I said with each of the arcs spend a few minutes to arrange them and make sure that I do like them well now let's go to the sewing machine and put a few of these pieces together into the miniature double wedding ring like all of the other quilts I do recommend that you use 100% cotton thread and again I want to stress that you use a scant fourth inch seam allowance you need to make up for the amount of fabric used in the seam line I do have the ironing board right close to me because if I don't take the time to iron between each of the the seams I find that I don't have things laying flat like I want to we will first start out by sewing the little pieces in the center of the arc and like I said there are four of the a pieces that go into the center and just taking a little bit of time to rearrange them.

That you like the way they look and we will chain.

Those pieces together and then we will continue on and put the ends on and when you change.

That just seems simply means that you don't cut the thread between each of the pieces as you're sewing put them right sides together and put them under the presser foot I like to work with a open toe foot.

That I have the whole area visible where I am working and when you start out hold on to the thread behind the presser foot.

That your thread doesn't go down into the feed dogs and see how easy it is I'm not pinning anything just guiding it through and just feed them through and I like to work with enough for probably eight arcs or.

At one time because you don't want to spend a lot of time with this very simple to do just feeding them through two by two and then after you get them in twos then you put them into fours and.

On and I'll show you in just a little bit what I mean after you have done this then you will clip the threads between now we want on yet because it's not necessary to do that until we have the whole arc done now after you have them into tools then you'll put them into fours like I have up here in front of me already done and this particular one now is ready to have the end pieces put onto it.

Let's lay one on each end this see the little curve on each end these pieces are just a little bit different than the ones in the center again putting them right sides together and again you would have a several that you would be working on at a time you do not want to do just one at a time that's how easy it is to make the Ark and you just continue on and put the other one on now I have some steps up here that are farther along and I'll take you into the next part of it after you have the six pieces put into the ark then you need to take the time now to iron it and you iron them all in one direction now here we've got one that's going in the wrong wrong direction you have to have them all going in the same direction that's very important that you take the time to do that then it's time to put them onto the little melon that goes into the design but you first need to identify the center of both sides of that melon and to do that you just simply fold it in half and cut a little clip on each side just making a tiny little snip now you want to make sure that you don't cut that too deep.

That it goes into the seam allowance because that would make it weaker now you need to lay these right sides together and they don't match up very good because you've got one curve coming this way and the one underneath going that way but I'll show you how that's done you put a pin on the center seam of the arc and and then one through the bottom part down here and flip it backwards we're going to sew this seam with the arc on the top then you'll put another pin out here on the end 1/4 of an inch from the corner and then go to the bottom pin bottom piece and put a pin there now when you identify the fourth of an inch on this melon part I'm going to lay it down.

That I can explain it a little better do not measure from the point in to get your fourth inch but go from the curved edge or the outside edge here and go in 1/4 of an inch from each side if you measure fourth inch from the point it would not fit exactly right.

That's how you find the fourth inch seam allowance then insert the pin there and flip that one backwards and then you'll have to put one more pin up in here just kind of move them into a match and then repeat that process on the other end again putting a pin down in here finding the fourth inch and you'll do one seam going on all the way across now that step has been done on this piece here and I'll take you from this point on and see how this has been connected in here notice the little ear that sticks out on each end that is where the fourth of an inch seam allowance comes in and turning it over to the backside see how the seam allowance has been ironed towards the center on this particular piece.

That's how easy it is then to put those two pieces now you want to make sure that this lies nice and flat if it doesn't then your seam allowance has not been is not correct then it's time to connect the two pieces together but before we do that I want to show you how to attach a connecting corner to to one of the arcs and I'll remove these pins and show you how that's done when putting the connecting corners on I do not pin the pieces together first but rather I move the fabric into a match as I'm showing place the DPS or the connecting order a corner on top of the arc and when I turn it over you'll see that there's a little bit of a tail up here on this end and that's what you want is a fourth inch tail there.

Now just put it under the presser foot and I will stop about every four or five inches and readjust the fabric.

That it's easy to attach. Okay, stop with the needle in a down position readjust your fabric to move it over to.

That the two edges match up and then continue on stop and readjust one more time and.

Off the end now if I would have used pins in that particular part I would have had a real tough time getting that to work out but see how nice that lays in there now if that would have been on the straight a green I might have had a little harder time working with that piece then you would do the same on the other end putting a connecting corner on there after you have the Mellen on one half attached and the connecting corners on the other half then it's time to put the two parts together now we've already identified the center of this male and already and the center of this part is identified by a seam line place them right sides together like this and insert a pin right on the center part then when connecting this part right here and. This is the most difficult part about this design is to get a perfect match right in this corner right here some people will have trouble with this part right here because you don't want to have them come off center what you do is insert a pin right on the seam line a fourth of an inch from the edge then go to the bottom part and do the same thing 1/4 of an inch from the edge leave that pin standing and insert another pin on both sides of that Center pin and we'll get some more pins over here and finish in this particular step then on the outside way out here you want to put one more pin out here then one more pin right here in the center and all the way out here to this end and you would repeat that prime says of pinning out here the same as I did on this end and in one continuous seam you would sell that together and if you sew exactly a fourth of an inch from that edge then you should have a perfect seam over here now if your seam allowance isn't exactly right you will be able to tell that because if you have a bubble in your melon it won't and it doesn't lay nice and flat that should tell you that you've done something wrong but you want them to lay nice and flat like this then after you have made the melons it's time to put them into the background piece but you first need to identify where the center of each of the sides are and you do that by folding it in into fourths and then cutting a little snip out of each of the sides and you do that all the way around all four sides place it down and with right sides together put the melon on top of the background piece now this one it seems it would seem like you would want to sew this with this one on top but instead you would rather you want to sew with the e piece on the top and because we ironed the seams in that one direction I won't have to worry about them flipping backwards under the the presser foot.

It is very important that you iron the seam allowance in the correct direction and we will put a pin in 1/4 of an inch from the edge right on the seam line right at the point where the connecting corner and the arcs meet up and then we'll put one more pin in here and that's all you will need and repeat that on the other end putting a pin right on the connecting corner and the fourth of an inch from the tail now in one continuous seam then you would sew from this seam over to here you need to back stitch. This is the first time that you will back stitch in this design back up to this can and.

Over to this end and then back up until this point we haven't done any back stitching at all it just creates bulk in the corners and you don't have nice flat seams a little later on well now we're going to go back to the cutting table and we're going to talk about some finishing touches when putting this design together after you have the melons on and you have made rows you leave one of the melons off and notice how the connecting corners have still not been sewn or attached and I'm going to move this a little bit closer to me.

That it's easier for you to see what I'm talking about you would put these right sides together and see how you have to move this one up into here and then you would match the background piece here to the connecting corner right here now you do nuts when you attach these rows onto the when you attach rows together do not sew through the connecting corner that is the very last thing that you do.

You would just simply sew from here to over here with the e piece on the top side and I'm going to flip this one over.

That I can show you exactly what the backside looks like when putting the connecting corner together I'm going to separate this apart.

You can see what it looks like you would first do this seam then this seam here and there are ironed in opposite directions of each other and then in one continuous seam you would go across the center then after you have the whole top done there is a little stencil that fits just perfectly into the design and you would put that on to your quilt before you put it into your quilt sandwich you would just line it up with the corners of the design just follow in those open holes with a marking pencil and it's all ready to be quilted I hope you've enjoyed watching this little quilt go together today I've sure had fun sharing with you.

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